SAS/C

The Solid Axle Swap/Conversion is nothing new, and appears to be gaining in popularity amongst off-road enthusiast. However, this is not a cheap conversion, nor is it one for somebody who has not maxed out their IFS setup. There are people who don't want to go to a SAS, and that is OK. They may find that wheeling their IFS works for them and what they want to do. In my experience, I was constantly exceeding the limits of my IFS, and so for me, it was time to install some stronger components.

Performing a SAC (Solid Axle Conversion) or also known as a SAS (Solid Axle Swap) on a 3rd generation 4Runner is no easy task, nor is it cheap. A 4Runner Limited is considered the crem-d-la-crème of the 4Runner fleet, and is usually not considered the ideal vehicle for rock crawling. We purchased our ’99 4Runner with the intention of doing a few modifications so we could take it on moderate trails. However, as time passed, we attempted harder trails, and started breaking more parts. Axle shafts, CV joints and 5/8 bolts were some of the broken parts. After breaking my 3rd axle, I decided it was time to step up to something more robust.

My goal for this 4Runner was to build a very good rock crawler that could take me to the trails, run the trails and then bring me home. To make it to the trails, it had to have a nice comfortable ride on the highway, for hours at a time. Thus far, this 4Runner has impressed me with its excellent flex on the trail, and its very smooth ride on the highway.

Research

I couldn't find anybody else that has done a Coil-Over SAS on a 4Runner, so I was kind of breaking ground here. Indeed, there are many Tacoma’s out there that have SAS setups, but very few with Coil-Over's. Most that I came across went with the leaf setup, because it’s much easier. Getting a 3-link Coil-Over setup correctly it not an easy task. Some did a 4-link, and then converted to a 3-link. I can say without a doubt, that the 3-link in front is the way to go for no-bind flex.

Because I wanted a great ride on the highway, I researched out Tacoma rigs that have done the Coil-Over SAS. Dean from TTORA (http://www.tacodab.com/) has a SASed Taco that had pretty much what I wanted to do. He did a really great job on his, and was kind enough to answer my numerous questions. Dean’s SAS page is: http://www.tacodab.com/coiloversas.html

The Tacominator also helped me with some questions and lots of pictures.

There are numerous other sites and people that have assisted me as well....so thank you all for your assistance. Other research items were the front differential, flat top knuckles, axles, u-joints, wheel balancers, steering, etc. There is plenty to research, so make sure you make a list, and go through each item.

 

The project begins

During the time I was doing this project, my rig was not a daily driver. I was able to pull it into the garage, and leave it there for a few months. On June 1st of 2005, I backed into the garage, and started taking parts off. Its always a thrill to get started in taking parts off, in anticipation of a new stronger axle.

NOTE: There are 72 pictures on this page, so please be patient as your page loads.

 

Note in the second picture there is the vacuum canister inside the fender well.
This vacuum canister was moved to the engine bay, in the 3rd picture.

cutting

grinding, and more grinding

parts for sale.
In the 3rd picture, notice how the frame narrows. This can make it difficult to keep the drilled holes lined up correctly.

I used the frame brace as a template. Then I stick the spacers into the holes, and drilled pilot holes into the far side of the frame.

Note, my frame brace is FrankenStein looking. The frame brace is designed to hold the steering box at a steep angle so that
the steering box points at the steering column. I wanted to have my pitman arm as low as possible, close to the tie-rod. So, I
rotated the frame brace, cut it up and welded it back together again. This gives me more brace on more of the frame.

I moved the steering box as much as I could forward on the frame.
Note now flat or parallel to the ground the pitman arm is.

The Old steering column and u-joint for the Rack and Pinion steering.

 

I wanted to use the existing firewall pass through for the steering shaft. So, I capped off the part where the IFS steering rod
would go, and cut a hole in the back of the plate. I used an IFS CV boot to hug the shaft.

Stringing up the string to measure how much metal needed to be cut from the plate above.
Note how the splines on the stock shaft have a key in them. I used a small file to make a key in my Flaming River Steering shaft.

Looking good so far.

Bent Up has a hose and compression fittings that can be used for the Steering setup. So far no leaks.
There is a sensor that goes to the Power Steering reservoir. I unplugged it and capped it. No issues so far.

The next picture shows how the dipstick tube in the front needs to be plugged.
The plug that is currently in the hole with the red arrow, will need to be ground down, and used to plug the hole with the Blue arrow.
A new dipstick tube will need to be acquired. This new tube will replace the bracket you see in picture number 2 below.
Compare pictures 2 and 3, and you'll see what I mean.

I unbolted the engine mount to make things a little easier wen removing and installing the new dipstick tube parts.
Below you can also see the new T100 oil pan.

My plan was to setup my own gears. But, I ran short on time. So, I took the whole setup to 4Wheel Parts in ABQ.

While I was messing with things, I decided to get crazy and paint the knuckles red. Don't ask why, it just happened late one night.
While I had the spray paint in hand, the tie-rod, drag-link and diff cover were assaulted as well.

Since I was doing coil-overs and links were required, I couldn't keep the existing transmission support. I cut it completely out,
and created my own support for the links. A FROR transfer case mount holds the transfer case up quite well.

 

The lower links are DOM 2" OD x 1/4" walls tubing.
I then sleeved these lower links with DOM 1.5" OD x 1/4" walls tubing. A guy at BTF stated they could be sleeved with a little
persuasion. After pounding a 1/2" plate into the asphalt, I have to disagree with his statement. I ended up grinding a little metal
off the 1.5" OD links the have them fit. lot of work.

The link tabs were made by a friend in Los Alamos. He has access to a plasma cutter and cut these 1/4" plates for me.
The Parts Mike Super Arms are beefy arms. I put the lower shock mount on the inside knuckle. The weight point is just to the lower
side of the apex. This will get the shock up off the axle housing (space is a premium), and keep it low enough on the corner so as
not to bend the knuckle.

 

Setting it all up.

Getting the links in place and figuring it all out.

Checking for clearance under the frame.

Something that concerned me was the Transmission dipstick tube. The 2nd picture shows how much it sticks out. I took the pan
off and trimmed it down a bit. The 1st picture shows the clearance issue. I didn't want the top link to bash into this tube under
hard comprssion.So, far its all working in sync.

Couple more shots of the top link to the dip stick tube.

Checking the clearance.

Links look good, so Jayson came over and laid down some metal on the coil-over hoops.

 

 

The 14" SAW coil-overs are pretty big. Had I done it over again, I would have picked up 12" coil-overs right away.

Man this thing is big!
The last picture shows were I'm at now. Kinda low compared to when it first rolled out of the garage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Disclaimer: What you see on these pages are my own experiences and what changes I have performed on my vehicle. Should you choose to attempt these type of changes to your vehicle, I am not responsible for any consequential damages that may result from these type of modifications. I do not encourage any readers to copy these modifications to their own vehicle. Modifying your vehicle can be dangerous to you and anybody else on the roadway. Please take care in what you do with your vehicle.